Leseprobe
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Sun Gods & Surfers True Adventure
Stan Dean
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Ratgeber / Sport
Beschreibung
During a college break in 1983, 23-year-old Stan Dean set off with two friends on a dream road trip from California down the coast to Mexico in search of surf, self, and adventure.
Growing up in a bohemian family in suburban L.A., Dean is troubled and rebellious, keen to paddle into deeper realms. He retraces his journey in this true story overflowing with wild waves, sex, drugs, danger, and enchantment. As he moves through pristinely beautiful towns and little-discovered surf spots, he finds himself tripping on acid in the jungle and finding solace among drifters, hustlers, pot smugglers, and wave junkies, eventually surfing the legendary 'Mexican Pipeline'.
Equal parts surf tale and coming-of-age memoir, Sun Gods and Surfers is a personal and philosophical odyssey, full of unexpected surprises. While wrestling with the mysteries of synchronicity and the mechanics of manifesting, Dean explores the wonder and subculture of surfing, the ocean's beauty and power, and our place in the natural world, leading him to his true self. Lifetimes later, after thousands of miles, countless adventures, and a family of his own, Dean still chases after the perfect wave.
Kundenbewertungen
surfing adventure memoir, coming of age surf story, counter-culture exploration, Mexico road trip novel, ocean-enchantment narrative, synchronicity-manifesting, self-discovery journey